Patagonia 2012 = Grey Glacier

We chose the Wildlife Safari five day tour at EcoCamp Patagonia. This allowed us to be flexible with our activities in the park. Each evening we had the opportunity to choose from an Easy or Active adventure for the following day.

A map to give you perspective on where we are in the world.

The second adventure on the EcoCamp list was an easy trek day from the comfort of our EcoCamp dome to Grey Glacier. (The trek is named Drive & Walk Western Lakes, Navigation Glacier Grey)

We rode across the Park, stopping along the way at lookouts to admire the view of Paine Grande and its snowy peaks, and Los Cuernos with its black, granite horn-like spires.

A look out over the park to Paine Grande

Los Cuernos

Walking along the shores of the stunning Lake Pehoe, we saw the furious Salto Grande (Big Jump) waterfalls where the water from Lake Nordenskjold cascades down into Pehoe.

Salto Grande

The walk continues over the gentle Nordenskjold trail until until we reach its spectacular lookout point.

Just above Salto Grande

Later, back at Lake Pehoe, we were driven South to a beach along the shores of glacial Lake Grey where we embarked on a boat ride across the icy waters to the towering blue walls of Glacier Grey.

Melissa suited up for the boat ride

0nly a small portion of one side of the glacier at waters edge

We were served pisco sours with glacial ice the just pulled from the freezing waters!

After the incredible sight of the glacier up close, we headed back to EcoCamp and got to see one of the endangered species of the park.

The endangered Huemul Deer

Back at EcoCamp we cleaned up and headed to the Core Domes for the typical evenings Pisco Sours, apps, wine and yet again a delicious three course dinner. The views at night of our camp continue to stop us in our tracks as we head tired but happy to bed.

The next day would bring us back to the Southern edge of the park and a trek up into the French Valley. Our fingers were crossed that we get a clear day because we heard the 360 degree views are amazing.

To view photos from EcoCamp Grey Glacier,
click HERE

Patagonia 2012 = EcoCamp Mirador Las Torres

We chose the Wildlife Safari five day tour at EcoCamp Patagonia. This allowed us to be flexible with our activities in the park. Each evening we had the opportunity to choose from an Easy or Active adventure for the following day.

An introductory video about EcoCamp Patagonia

Next up on our adventure list is an Active trek from the comfort of our EcoCamp dome to Mirador Las Torres (The Towers of Torres).

We got up early and headed out past Hostería Las Torres down in the valley and across a suspension bridge to the trailhead. Our guide, Isi (learn more about her HERE), described the route to the towers as mostly Patagonian Flat "up and down, but with overall elevation gain". That's how they describe the majority of hiking in the park, and it's pretty close to that, but most of the time your hiking up. Isi was an excellent guide, describing the peaks and flora all around us.

Mirador Las Torres Trailhead

The trail begins by ascending 1,200 ft steeply along a river in the Ascencio Valley on the Tower's eastern face. Once we reach the top of this uphill climb, there is a good view down the valley and of Campamento Chileno Refugio (hut). Next we drop 600 ft to the river and reach the refugio. The refugio is one of several run by a few companies in the Torres del Paine park.

Valley View down to Campamento Chileno Refugio

It's another mile or so beyond the refugio, and about 1,200 feet more of climbing to the the base of the towers. The trail can be a bit rough with steep ups and downs, but it's well marked. The last few hundred feet involves boulder hopping up the moraine.  Once we pass a huge house sized boulder there is a spectacular view of the towers rising up majestically before us from the small turquoise glacial lake below.

Mirador Las Torres

The famous Torres del Paine (2,900 m/ 9,400 ft) consist of three gigantic granite monoliths, the remains of a great cirque sheared away by the forces of glacial ice. At the base of the towers we enjoyed a packed lunch as well as an Upslope IPA craft beer that we brought all the way from Colorado. We took a ton of photos as the clouds appeared and disappeared around the peaks. The weather was beautiful for this time of year, so we spent a good 45 minutes enjoying the views and then headed back to EcoCamp. Our trekking crew was a small and young bunch, so we made the round trip in a "record" 6 hours when it typically takes about 8!

Mirador Las Torres

Back at EcoCamp we cleaned up and headed to the Core Domes for the evenings Pisco Sours, apps, wine and three course gourmet dinner. Exhausted from the day we said goodnight to our fellow ecocampers and enjoyed the almost full moon and late twilight on our way back to Suite Dome 6.

The next day would bring even more awe inspiring views from around the park, with less hiking, as we headed South to explore the beauty of Grey Glacier.

To view photos from Ecocamp Mirador Las Torres,
click the image below:

EcoCamp Patagonia - Mirador Las Torres

Patagonia 2012 = EcoCamp Arrival

We finally arrived at the pinnacle of our trip. EcoCamp Patagonia in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile!

EcoCamp provides the region’s first fully sustainable accommodation, complete with green technology. You can enjoy guided treks and wildlife excursions by day and share evening meals with new friends, before falling asleep gazing up at the star-filled sky through your dome ceiling. Wake up in the middle of the Patagonian wilderness in a cozy geodesic dome, with a panoramic view of the majestic Torres del Paine, ready to pick up the hiking trail!

From El Calafate, we took about a seven hour van ride with one other couple from Australia. Mike and Wendy were great to chat with during the ride and enjoyed most of the park with us during the next five days. We entered into Chile at a small border crossing in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road. It took some time to explain why Melissa had no incoming stamp in her passport for Argentina and that it was an emergency replacement passport, but we got it sorted out and were on our way again.

Our first view of the park was from a roadside pullout overlooking Lago Sarmiento de Gamboa. It took our breath away, and we were speechless knowing that we would get to play here for the next few days.

Cordillera del Paine

After turning in some paperwork at the entrance to the park we made our way to the domes at EcoCamp. We settled into Suite Dome 6 and then made our way to the Core Domes for an amazing gourmet lunch with Mike and Wendy. From there, we explored around the camp and walked through an interpretive nature trail to learn about some of the flora and fauna we would see during our stay.

Suite Dome 6

Yes ... we are excited to be here!

The evening started with some Pisco Sours and delicious appetizers back in the Core Domes while other guests made their way back in from day hikes around the park. The friendly and knowledgable staff announced the activity choices (one easy and one active option) for the next day and pointed out the locations on a large map before we all headed into the dining dome for dinner. A three course Patagonian fusion meal with Chilean wine is served each evening. After dinner you can relax in the bar with a drink on the sofas or head to the library, the smallest core dome, to look over maps, read a book or chat with other guests.

Amazing apps to go with our Pisco Sours

Dinner ends around 10:30 p.m. or so each evening, which is interesting to get used to along with the fact that it is not even completely dark yet. Twilight hangs around until about 11:30 or so this time of year and this far South. We have a big day ahead of us tomorrow so we head to bed, somewhat early, and dream of the towers of Torres del Paine.

To view photos from Ecocamp Arrival,
click the image below:

Ecocamp Arrival

Patagonia 2012 = El Calafate - Stay 1

After obtaining a new passport for Melissa in Buenos Aires, we were ready to get out of the city again and head South West to El Calafate a town in Patagonia, Argentina (6,540 miles from Denver, as the crow flies). It is situated in the southern border of Lake Argentino, in the southwest part of the Santa Cruz Province. Its name is derived from a little bush with yellow flowers and dark blue berries that is very common in Patagonia: the calafate. Its edible blue-black berries are harvested for jams, but are eaten fresh too — a legend tells that anyone who eats a Calafate berry will be certain to return to Patagonia ... so we did!

El Calafate is an important treking destination as the hub to visit different parts of the Los Glaciares National Park, including the Perito Moreno Glacier, and a jumping off point to the southern parts of the Patagonian Andes.

We checked into the Esplendor Hotel Boutique, toured the downtown area and had an amazing local lamb and fish dinner at Casimiro Bigua. We stayed one night and then headed further South to Ecocamp Patagonia. We'd be back after five days to stay for another two nights in El Calafate.

To view photos from El Calafate - Stay 1,
click the image below:

El Calafate - Stay 1

Patagonia 2012 = Buenos Aires - Stay 2

During our second stay in Buenos Aires, we enjoyed the following activities:

• we stayed at the A Hotel (formerly the Art Hotel). Very nice place tucked into the city. A little difficult getting to when you don't speak Spanish and you hand a taxi driver a piece of paper asking to go to "A" Hotel.
• visited the U.S. Embassy to get Melissa's emergency passport so that we could travel into Chile for our five day stay at Ecocamp Patagonia. The Embassy was very friendly and had the passport ready later that afternoon
• checked out the Plaza Naciones Unidas, Floralis Generica. Very cool sculpture that actually opens and closes each morning and night, like a real flower would
• toured La Recoleta Cemetery. Sounds odd, but it is a must see in the city! Just check out the photos and you will see why.
• went to a private wine tasting through a company called Anuva Wines. The owner is from the states and started these tastings in BA after falling in love with Argentinian wines. It is a great way to try some wines from all around the country without having to travel. And they are all wines that you can't get in the U.S. We were however, able to purchase a case through a special distribution connection they have and it was delivered to our house in CO. Still enjoying them!

To view photos from Buenos Aires - Stay 2,
click the image below:

Buenos Aires - Stay 2

Patagonia 2012 = San Carlos de Bariloche

After our unplanned, uncomfortable and unforgettable 20hr bus ride West across Argentina, we spent a couple days in San Carlos de Bariloche. Most of the time we were on the phone with the airlines, banks and U.S. Embassy (Melissa needed to replace the stolen passport) trying to resolve the stolen purse issue. We slowly filtered everything out. Then, realizing that we would need to head back to the Embassy in Buenas Aires before being able to enter Chile on the next leg of our trip, we decided to get out and see the sights:

• we rented a car and drove the Circuito Chico around a peninsula on the edge of Nahuel Huapi Lake
• visited the lavish Lalo Lalo Hotel
• stopped for a small hike to an ancient roman stone bridge
• found a great little roadside cafe called Punto Panoramico for some delicious empanadas and microbrew
• amazing steak and wine dinner (again) at El Patacon "Restaurante Argentino", right next to our hotel
• explored one of the biggest ski areas in South America, Catedral Ski Resort, by gondola and chairlift
• visited the shops downtown and made a stop at the police department to get an official report on the stolen purse (no one spoke English, so that was an adventure in itself!)
  
  
  
  To view photos from
  San Carlos de Bariloche,
  click the image below:

San Carlos de Bariloche

Patagonia 2012 = Buenos Aires - Stay 1

Well ... to say the least, it has been quite a while since our trip to South America in November. After returning to the states we have been super busy with Christmas, work, a trip back to NH and playing when we can up in the mountains here in Colorado. We were finally able to sort through the 1,400+ photos we took and the following posts are a little snapshot of our amazing trip.

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After two flights and more than 15 hours, we landed in Buenos Aires, Argentina to start our two week adventure.  It proved to be a trip of a lifetime!

During our first stay in Buenos Aires, we enjoyed the following activities:

• sightseeing downtown along Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest Avenue in the world with up to seven lanes in each direction and flanked on either side by parallel streets of two lanes each)
• walking around the Boca (home to the Boca Juniors where Diego Maradona once played) and San Telmo neighborhoods
• stopping by The Pink Palace (Argentina's "White House")
• checking out the shops on Florida Street
• enjoying a huge Argentinian wine and steak dinner
• watched a crazy soccer match at River Plate against the Argentinos Juniors (0-0 tie), stadium seats 65,645

Unfortunately there were major city transportation strikes planned for the day we were to fly out to San Carlos de Bariloche and our flight was canceled. We decided to take a 20hr bus ride across the country instead of waiting three days for the next flight. At the sketchy bus station, Melissa's purse was stolen. The camera with most of the photos from the first few days, including almost all of the soccer game, was with the purse.

This interruption and theft caused us some delays, extra travel and a sooner return to Buenos Aires than originally planned in order to get a replacement passport for Melissa so that we could continue our trip in Chile. Overall we had some headaches and a lost a day or so in Bariloche, but we were able to reschedule flights, accommodations and activities to keep our trip on track.

To view photos from Buenos Aires - Stay 1,
click the image below:

Buenos Aires - Stay 1