Patagonia 2012 = EcoCamp Arrival

We finally arrived at the pinnacle of our trip. EcoCamp Patagonia in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile!

EcoCamp provides the region’s first fully sustainable accommodation, complete with green technology. You can enjoy guided treks and wildlife excursions by day and share evening meals with new friends, before falling asleep gazing up at the star-filled sky through your dome ceiling. Wake up in the middle of the Patagonian wilderness in a cozy geodesic dome, with a panoramic view of the majestic Torres del Paine, ready to pick up the hiking trail!

From El Calafate, we took about a seven hour van ride with one other couple from Australia. Mike and Wendy were great to chat with during the ride and enjoyed most of the park with us during the next five days. We entered into Chile at a small border crossing in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road. It took some time to explain why Melissa had no incoming stamp in her passport for Argentina and that it was an emergency replacement passport, but we got it sorted out and were on our way again.

Our first view of the park was from a roadside pullout overlooking Lago Sarmiento de Gamboa. It took our breath away, and we were speechless knowing that we would get to play here for the next few days.

Cordillera del Paine

After turning in some paperwork at the entrance to the park we made our way to the domes at EcoCamp. We settled into Suite Dome 6 and then made our way to the Core Domes for an amazing gourmet lunch with Mike and Wendy. From there, we explored around the camp and walked through an interpretive nature trail to learn about some of the flora and fauna we would see during our stay.

Suite Dome 6

Yes ... we are excited to be here!

The evening started with some Pisco Sours and delicious appetizers back in the Core Domes while other guests made their way back in from day hikes around the park. The friendly and knowledgable staff announced the activity choices (one easy and one active option) for the next day and pointed out the locations on a large map before we all headed into the dining dome for dinner. A three course Patagonian fusion meal with Chilean wine is served each evening. After dinner you can relax in the bar with a drink on the sofas or head to the library, the smallest core dome, to look over maps, read a book or chat with other guests.

Amazing apps to go with our Pisco Sours

Dinner ends around 10:30 p.m. or so each evening, which is interesting to get used to along with the fact that it is not even completely dark yet. Twilight hangs around until about 11:30 or so this time of year and this far South. We have a big day ahead of us tomorrow so we head to bed, somewhat early, and dream of the towers of Torres del Paine.

To view photos from Ecocamp Arrival,
click the image below:

Ecocamp Arrival

Patagonia 2012 = El Calafate - Stay 1

After obtaining a new passport for Melissa in Buenos Aires, we were ready to get out of the city again and head South West to El Calafate a town in Patagonia, Argentina (6,540 miles from Denver, as the crow flies). It is situated in the southern border of Lake Argentino, in the southwest part of the Santa Cruz Province. Its name is derived from a little bush with yellow flowers and dark blue berries that is very common in Patagonia: the calafate. Its edible blue-black berries are harvested for jams, but are eaten fresh too — a legend tells that anyone who eats a Calafate berry will be certain to return to Patagonia ... so we did!

El Calafate is an important treking destination as the hub to visit different parts of the Los Glaciares National Park, including the Perito Moreno Glacier, and a jumping off point to the southern parts of the Patagonian Andes.

We checked into the Esplendor Hotel Boutique, toured the downtown area and had an amazing local lamb and fish dinner at Casimiro Bigua. We stayed one night and then headed further South to Ecocamp Patagonia. We'd be back after five days to stay for another two nights in El Calafate.

To view photos from El Calafate - Stay 1,
click the image below:

El Calafate - Stay 1

Patagonia 2012 = Buenos Aires - Stay 2

During our second stay in Buenos Aires, we enjoyed the following activities:

• we stayed at the A Hotel (formerly the Art Hotel). Very nice place tucked into the city. A little difficult getting to when you don't speak Spanish and you hand a taxi driver a piece of paper asking to go to "A" Hotel.
• visited the U.S. Embassy to get Melissa's emergency passport so that we could travel into Chile for our five day stay at Ecocamp Patagonia. The Embassy was very friendly and had the passport ready later that afternoon
• checked out the Plaza Naciones Unidas, Floralis Generica. Very cool sculpture that actually opens and closes each morning and night, like a real flower would
• toured La Recoleta Cemetery. Sounds odd, but it is a must see in the city! Just check out the photos and you will see why.
• went to a private wine tasting through a company called Anuva Wines. The owner is from the states and started these tastings in BA after falling in love with Argentinian wines. It is a great way to try some wines from all around the country without having to travel. And they are all wines that you can't get in the U.S. We were however, able to purchase a case through a special distribution connection they have and it was delivered to our house in CO. Still enjoying them!

To view photos from Buenos Aires - Stay 2,
click the image below:

Buenos Aires - Stay 2

Patagonia 2012 = San Carlos de Bariloche

After our unplanned, uncomfortable and unforgettable 20hr bus ride West across Argentina, we spent a couple days in San Carlos de Bariloche. Most of the time we were on the phone with the airlines, banks and U.S. Embassy (Melissa needed to replace the stolen passport) trying to resolve the stolen purse issue. We slowly filtered everything out. Then, realizing that we would need to head back to the Embassy in Buenas Aires before being able to enter Chile on the next leg of our trip, we decided to get out and see the sights:

• we rented a car and drove the Circuito Chico around a peninsula on the edge of Nahuel Huapi Lake
• visited the lavish Lalo Lalo Hotel
• stopped for a small hike to an ancient roman stone bridge
• found a great little roadside cafe called Punto Panoramico for some delicious empanadas and microbrew
• amazing steak and wine dinner (again) at El Patacon "Restaurante Argentino", right next to our hotel
• explored one of the biggest ski areas in South America, Catedral Ski Resort, by gondola and chairlift
• visited the shops downtown and made a stop at the police department to get an official report on the stolen purse (no one spoke English, so that was an adventure in itself!)
  
  
  
  To view photos from
  San Carlos de Bariloche,
  click the image below:

San Carlos de Bariloche

Patagonia 2012 = Buenos Aires - Stay 1

Well ... to say the least, it has been quite a while since our trip to South America in November. After returning to the states we have been super busy with Christmas, work, a trip back to NH and playing when we can up in the mountains here in Colorado. We were finally able to sort through the 1,400+ photos we took and the following posts are a little snapshot of our amazing trip.

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After two flights and more than 15 hours, we landed in Buenos Aires, Argentina to start our two week adventure.  It proved to be a trip of a lifetime!

During our first stay in Buenos Aires, we enjoyed the following activities:

• sightseeing downtown along Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest Avenue in the world with up to seven lanes in each direction and flanked on either side by parallel streets of two lanes each)
• walking around the Boca (home to the Boca Juniors where Diego Maradona once played) and San Telmo neighborhoods
• stopping by The Pink Palace (Argentina's "White House")
• checking out the shops on Florida Street
• enjoying a huge Argentinian wine and steak dinner
• watched a crazy soccer match at River Plate against the Argentinos Juniors (0-0 tie), stadium seats 65,645

Unfortunately there were major city transportation strikes planned for the day we were to fly out to San Carlos de Bariloche and our flight was canceled. We decided to take a 20hr bus ride across the country instead of waiting three days for the next flight. At the sketchy bus station, Melissa's purse was stolen. The camera with most of the photos from the first few days, including almost all of the soccer game, was with the purse.

This interruption and theft caused us some delays, extra travel and a sooner return to Buenos Aires than originally planned in order to get a replacement passport for Melissa so that we could continue our trip in Chile. Overall we had some headaches and a lost a day or so in Bariloche, but we were able to reschedule flights, accommodations and activities to keep our trip on track.

To view photos from Buenos Aires - Stay 1,
click the image below:

Buenos Aires - Stay 1

Patagonia Trip UPDATE 1

So, we have reserved a couple hotels for our stay in Argentina ...

Buenos Aries -

UPDATE to the UPDATE
We could not get our reservations confirmed at Hotel home due to the fact we would only be staying for 2 nights during our first stay in Buenos Aries and they require a 3 night minimum during that time of the year : (

So we have booked here instead: Bourgeois Bohemian or BoBo Hotel
in the Palermo Soho barrio (neighborhood) of the city.

Palermo Soho is a small area of Palermo Viejo around Plaza Serrano (officially Plazoleta Cortázar) on Serrano near Palermo's south-western edge. It is a newly fashionable area for fashion, design, restaurants, bars and street culture. The atmosphere in many cafés and restaurants strives to be "alternative", which makes this area of the city especially popular with young, upper-middle class Argentines as well as foreign tourists. The traditional low houses have been adapted into boutiques and bars, creating a bohemian feel. The square has a crafts fair.

Hotel Home

Rooms

For our first two nights of the trip will will be staying at Hotel home in the Palermo Hollywood barrio (neighborhood) of the city.


About Palermo Hollywood - In the mid-nineties a number of TV and Radio producers installed themselves in the area between Córdoba, Santa Fe, Dorrego and Juan B. Justo Avenues in Palermo Viejo. For that reason this part of the neighborhood began to be called "Palermo Hollywood". Presently, it's best known for the concentration of restaurants, clubs -as Club Atlético Palermo, the oldest one-, cafés and an active nightlife.

Hotel home
Room
Pool
Resto/Bar

We will be returning to Buenos Aries for one night at the end of our trip, hotel TBD.


Bariloche -
Here we will be staying for three nights at Nido del Condor.


Some friends of ours have stayed here before and highly recommended it.

Photo Gallery

El Calafate -
After our hike across the Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park, we will stay for two nights at Esplendor Hotel.


After our five day stay at the EcoCamp in Chile, we will return to El Calafate for one night before heading back to Buenos Aires. Hotel for that night is still TBD.

Photo Gallery


~ Trip Overview Post ~

Patagonia ... here we come!!

So, we have planned our big trip for the year!

From Nov 17 to Dec 2, we are headed to South America to visit the Patagonia region between Chile and Argentina for 16 days of exploring and hiking. We start in Buenos Aires for a couple days, then head to Argentina's lakes district around San Carlos de Bariloche (think Breckenridge, but with more lake). Next we are off to El Calafate for some glacier trekking. Then further South to Torres del Paine National Park, where we will hike parts of the "W" circuit and explore some of the worlds largest, and still growing, glaciers. After our stay with EcoCamp Patagonia (in special domes), we will travel back to Buenos Aires for a night and day, via El Calafate.

The following is some info on the places we will stay and the things we will do/see:

Buenos Aires -
Maybe a local football match
HOME for our first two nights.
Exploring the local culture, markets, food, etc.


Bariloche -
Maybe stay here Nido del Condor
Lake Excursion by boat
Mountain Biking
Exploring the local culture, markets, food, etc.


El Calafate -
Maybe stay here Esplendor el Calafate
Hike on the Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park
Exploring the local culture, markets, food, etc.


EcoCamp Patagonia (Chile) -
Here we have booked with a company that provides all our needs for 5 days of exploring the Torres del Paine National Park. (Photos of the park)
Safari Description
Map
Photos

Then we will head back to Buenos Aires for an evening and day. Probably hit up a tango.

As the trip gets closer, we will send more info regarding contact info, flights, etc.